Surfing for Beginners - a How-To-Start Guide

• Introduction to Surfing - The Basics
• Channels and Currents - The Path into the Lineup
• Surfing Safety - Tips and Know-How
• Boards and Shapes - Choosing the Right Surfboard
• Find your perfect Surfboard at Blue Tomato

Surfing – More Than Just a Sport

Surfing is the art of utilising a wave's energy to glide across the water on a surfboard. However, it's more than just technique; it involves timing, balance, and a feeling of harmony with the ocean. Anyone who has felt the thrill of being carried by a wave understands that surfing is not merely a sport – it's a way of life.

Many snowboarders and skiers eventually find their way to the waves. Access to surfing has become increasingly easy, thanks to social media, travel opportunities, and the growing number of artificial wave pools. While the feeling of gliding across the water is often compared to riding on powder, surfing presents unique challenges.

From the Mountains to the Ocean – Your Path to Surfing

Pic: Marcel Lammerhirt

There are numerous ways to get into surfing. Growing up by the sea often fosters an early connection with the water. However, a surf trip seems like the next logical step for many snowboarders and skiers who spend their winters in the mountains. It has nearly become a tradition in various regions – those who chase powder in the winter seek out waves in Portugal, Bali, or Sri Lanka during the summer.

Booking a flight to a surfing destination has never been easier. But how do you actually begin surfing? Some have friends who push them into their first waves, others choose to book an all-inclusive surf camp, while some try to learn everything from YouTube tutorials. And if you can snowboard, surfing should be simple, shouldn’t it?

Not quite. Before you stand up on your first wave, there are numerous challenges to overcome – reading the ocean, recognising and using currents, finding the best entry and exit points, understanding tides, and knowing how wind affects waves. And then there’s the lineup, which has its own set of rules. Surfing is a process. It requires patience, time in the water, and the right advice.

To make things easier for you, here are some essential basics to help you reach your first turn faster.

Swell – The Foundation of Good Waves

Swell refers to waves generated by distant storms that travel across the ocean and eventually break along the coast. Their quality depends on two key factors: the period – the time between each wave – and the wave height, which is measured in feet or meters.

Wind plays a vital role, influencing whether the waves break in clean, organised lines or become choppy and unpredictable. Grasping these factors aids you in discovering the best conditions for your session.

Channels and Currents – Your Natural Path to the Lineup

Where breaking waves push water towards the shore, there must be a way for it to flow back out to sea. This creates a current, often forming a natural pathway known as a channel.

Recognising a channel can save you energy, enabling you to paddle into the lineup with minimal effort. However, without the proper knowledge, currents can also carry you out to open water and put you in perilous situations.

Always observe how experienced surfers enter the water and note the safest routes.

Pic: Sam Strauss

Pic: Sam Strauss

Priority and Localism – Who Has the Right of Way in the Lineup?

Who gets the next wave? Who has priority? And why? The rules may appear straightforward, but in reality, numerous factors come into consideration. Beyond the standard priority rules, localism plays a significant role in surf culture.

Priority and No-Gos in the Lineup

The general rule is that the surfer closest to the breaking part of the wave has the right of way. However, paddling around others to position yourself further inside is a major no-go. If you do, you risk being labelled a snake—a serious offence that could get you blocked from waves or even kicked out of the water. Wait your turn!

The peak of a wave is highly sought after and often dominated by locals. A friendly ‘hola’ won’t suffice to earn respect. It’s best to watch and observe first – see how surfers position themselves and how the best sets roll in before deciding.

The Lineup Works Like a Rotation

Once a surfer catches a wave, they paddle back through the white water or take a wide route around the breaking waves. Upon their return to the peak, they rejoin the queue at the back.

You'll quickly make enemies if you arrive at the lineup and immediately start paddling for every wave. Sometimes, patience pays off – locals might eventually acknowledge you and let you have a wave. However, this is becoming increasingly rare, and at world-class spots, it can take months or even years to earn respect in the lineup.

Finding Alternative Surf Spots

It’s often wiser to skip the most famous spots to avoid frustration and conflict, especially when the swell is huge. On good days, there are usually multiple surf breaks that work well. Choosing a quieter spot over the "best" one often results in catching more waves.

Every surf break has its locals. Imagine you’ve been waiting for a perfect powder day, only to have a group of strangers suddenly track out your favourite hidden lines. That’s precisely how many local surfers feel when newcomers invade their home break.

With the number of surfers rising while the number of surf spots stays the same, tension is inevitable. Even in destinations with consistent waves, there can be prolonged flat spells. When the surf finally turns on, the locals waiting for months will be hungrier than ever.

Respect is Key

The best approach is to show respect. As snowboarders appreciate it when visitors leave a run untracked, surfers value those who give them space. Being mindful of local surfers can lead to better sessions – and maybe even a few gifted waves.

Safety Tips – travelling safely in the water

Surfing is not only fun, but also a responsibility – for yourself and for others in the line-up. To make sure you get into the water safely and enjoy stress-free sessions, you should follow a few basic rules.

Before surfing: Observe and plan

Before you get into the water, take a moment to check the conditions. Pay attention to where other surfers go in and out of the water. Check whether currents, rocks or other obstacles could pose a danger.

• Tides and currents: Currents can turn completely within a few minutes due to tidal changes - this can quickly become a surprise. Therefore, check the local weather and wave forecasts. These are very precise and easy to access these days.
• Extra tip: If you are unsure, ask at a surf school, the nearest marina or local fishermen about the current conditions.

Pic: Sam Strauss

Behaviour in the Lineup

If you paddle into the lineup where other surfers are already sitting, keep your distance and watch what happens.

• Never forget that your board and leash have a considerable radius:
  • Shortboards: at least three metres
  • Longboards: up to six metres
• If you let go of your board in front of a large set, it can be dangerous for others. Always keep a safe distance from others.
• Never stand with your back to the waves in the surf zone.
• Your board should never be between you and the breaking wave - keep it to the side or towards the beach.
• Check the condition of your leash regularly - it can save your life.
• Let a wave that is too steep through rather than forcing it.
• Never paddle into the first wave of a set - there are often bigger ones to follow.

Pic: Marcel Lammerhirt

Safety in the water

Even though water is a soft element, injuries can happen. Fins are sharp, leashes can get tangled and an uncontrolled board can be dangerous.

Preparation & knowledge

• Check wave and weather conditions: Check currents, tides and weather conditions in advance.
• Know the danger zones: Avoid reefs, rocks or other obstacles.
• Choose the right board: Beginners should opt for larger, more stable boards.

Behaviour in the water

• Always wear a leash: Prevent your board from hitting others or drifting off.
• Respect right of way rules:
  • The surfer closer to the breaking wave has priority.
  • Do not paddle around others to position yourself further ahead - this is an absolute no-go.
  • Avoid drop-ins: If you don't have right of way, wait for the next wave.
• Keep control of the board: Never just let go - it's a danger to others.
• Don't fight the current: Swim out sideways in a rip current, don't paddle against it.

Physical safety

• Warm-up & stretching: Avoid injuries from cold muscles.
• Do not surf overtired or hypothermic.
• Wear protective clothing:
  • Wetsuit protects against the cold.
  • Lycra helps against sunburn.

Pic: Marcel Lammerhirt

Emergency measures

• Never surf alone: Always be in the water with others.
• Know the signals for help: Waving is the usual signal.
• Know the basics of first aid: Especially for treating cuts, bruises and drowning accidents.